Breakfast potatoes exist in countless variations; indeed every batch is it’s own incarnation. The technique (I hesitate calling it a “recipe”) I describe here is borne of scores of trials. Other methods will yield great potatoes, but this has evolved as my “go to” method. Here are the ingredients:
- Potatoes, peeled and coarsely diced (1 large potato per serving)
- Garlic – three normal cloves, one thinly sliced, the other macerated in salt
- Onion – one small (or half a large) yellow onion for 2 servings
- Oil for frying (corn oil, or a mix of corn and olive oils) – I don’t like the taste of Canola oil
- Salt & Pepper
For two people you’ll need one of those massive baking potatoes, or 2 regular potatoes, depending on size of potato and appetite of the intended diners. Peel and dice the potatoes, either at the moment or even the evening before. I have my own system that involves cutting off the ends and using a Y-peeler. Then I dice them (not so carefully) so the larger pieces are noticeably larger than a sugar cube. I simply slide those potato pieces into a boiler (saucepan) of water as they are cut, where they are left overnight or taken to the stove immediately. Once cooked to tenderness, I drain them (I pour mine over a Chinese colander), letting them dry a bit while heating oil in the skillet. (Note: I find boiling the potatoes not only speeds the final process, but also improves the internal consistency of the potato shards.)
Choosing as large a skillet as is available, one that will allow each potato shard to hit the hot surface, heat a mixture of corn oil and olive oil (as much as 1/4 inch in depth) to a good hotness, then introduce the potatoes – you should be met by a nice sizzling sound. As they seal, then begin to brown and crisp, stir things up so all of the potato facets begin to crisp. This is “pan frying” – short of deep frying, it’s a lot simpler than getting out the fryer. Sometimes, I will drop in two or three peeled garlic cloves, letting them fry with the potatoes, but not everyone likes whole cooked garlic.
You could simply continue to fry the potatoes in oil and serve, but that just makes them into cubed french fries. My preference is to drain the oil before the potato chards take on much color, leaving only the oil coating the pan. (I reserve this oil and use it over and over for new batches). Then I add a few pats of butter, and begin the real “hash brown” process. Here, the potatoes take on a nice buttery texture, a bit crunchy on the outside, somewhat custardy inside. This yields a distinctive character, with some sides of the potatoes browned and other facets pale. To me, this what makes these potatoes hash-browned, yielding a somewhat uneven browning, while breaking down the surface to generate a surface texture of butter-crisped bits.
While the potatoes are cooking away, chop up some onion. How much is up to you. For 2 medium potatoes, I’d use all of a small to medium onion, or half a larger onion. It’s nice to have the other half an onion, wrapped in film and hanging out in the fridge for later use.
Just as the way you chose to brown the potato shards determines their texture, the quantity and manner in which you introduce the onion rules the final dish. Normally, I’ve already eliminated extra oil and introduced butter, so I will simply spread the onions into the pan once the potatoes are browned to my liking. It’s important to say that once the potatoes have been fried in the oil, the butter-driven hash-browning will not be delayed. So you can’t walk away from the stove once the butter is added. Typically, I just add the onions and leave the heat on for just a couple of minutes more. If I want a bit more of a slushy texture to the final hashbrowns, I’ll add some extra butter along with the onion.
While the onions cook, I slice (thinly) one garlic clove and make a paste using one or two peeled cloves macerated with salt on a cutting board using a stiff, stainless putty knife. I know this seems weird, but I own and have used every kind of garlic processing tool I’ve ever encountered. I’ve smashed garlic with large knives, and pushed it through presses. I’ve sliced it with knives and hard-to-clean garlic slicers. A stiff putty knife and a bit of salt are the best for me. Easy to work and simple to clean, while yielding a great paste that’s easy to incorporate.
Once the onion is clear, turn off the heat; then introduce the garlics. I make certain to scatter the paste and slices around so I can stir the garlic into the potatoes without leaving lumps for the unwary. This is the time I adjust for salt and pepper. The macerated garlic will have brought some salt to the party, so I wait until the end. Yes, I know the chefs will have salted the water, and added salt all along. I sort of prefer the salt and pepper to embellish rather than permeate the potatoes and onion, so the components don’t taste like they were brined.
The hashbrowns can stay warm in the skillet while eggs or other breakfast components are finished. You can also set the pan in a warm oven, but they shouldn’t be cooked to some unfortunate point.
Note: Cooking the hashbrowns is a wonderful way to keep cast iron skillets well-seasoned. I have two or three that work well for this recipe, and rotate through them as one way of preventing rusting.
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